29 May


I woke early and had the tent and everything packed up by 7am. Only 40-odd km to Mostar and it was quite a flat ride. I had a bit of bread and a chocolate mousse. There had been no rain since I put up my tent. Good. And the weather looks clearer today. Good, good, good. Easy riding.

I got to Mostar, found Axelle, and we explored the old town, with it’s slippery cobbled streets and iconic bridge busy with groups of tourists. And we explored the new town, with it’s bullet ridden, war torn, recent ruins. Mostar was a major warzone between the Croats, Bosnians and Serbs. The Bosnians were pinned in from all sides. The iconic bridge, that once was the photochild for the whole Balkan area, was destroyed. It’s been rebuilt now, with parts salvaged from the river below. There’s a painted brick leaning on the side of a restaurant in the old town that reads ‘Never Forget’. According to the stories we’ve been told, tensions in Mostar are still very high.

A man said he would jump off the 21m high Old Bridge if the tourists put money in his hat. After plenty of preparation, he jumped, nay, he soared, like an eagle in Speedos.


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